the belly chronicles

hoshi onsen

 

Ahhhhhh. We're back from our weekend getaway at Chojukan Onsen. So lovely. So quiet. Old and simple.

Well, this is actually the newer onsen wing. I didn't get a photo of the 100-year old very traditional room, but you can find at least a small photo here.

And the outdoor rotemburo (outdoor bath), which I was able to enjoy while catching snowflakes on my tongue. A quintessential Japanese experience (that also reminded me somehow of The Palace in winter, Orr Hot Springs, and Ventana at Big Sur).

The onsen washing area...scrub clean before the tub.

 A spring water drinking area outside the baths.

After a couple of hours of soaking, dinner was delivered to our room :)

 

Tempura fish and a sweet potato and fish filling tempura sandwich.

 Beef, aspargus, mushrooms, and onion grilled in butter in a hot pot.

 Cucumber and some kind of hatcho miso, mushroom in an aspic-like cube, burdock and carrot wrapped in smoked fish, some kind of crunchy roe, roast beef.

Sashimi.

 Daikon wrapped round pickled veggies, pickled spring onion, some pickled fish that tasted just like the pickled herring that Grandpa used to buy on Sundays.

Tofu and beans and a sweet fermented cabbage.

 Local fish.

Egg custard.

It was so much food, we didn't even touch the rice that comes at the end of the meal. A fellow guest told us that this place has "pretty good" food, but the onsen he was going to the next night has not as good baths, but better food. We certainly enjoyed ourselves, and everything was tasty and fresh. It seemed fitting country fare for the setting. Our fellow guest's complaint was that it was "too much food." But so relaxing to taste and try and rest while doing my best.

And I still had plenty of energy for  late-night soak. And while we disappear for our soak, the futon fairies come and lay out the beds.

 Maybe all that energy came from the green tea in the lobby tea room.

 Breakfast was another feast...fish, tofu, rice, miso, and so many fermented vegetables. (Dale, you would have loved it!)

I've got to say, seeing all that snow made me itch for a ski trip. We're so busy with visitors these next couple of months, we might not fit it in, but after raising such good downhill and cross country skiers these last couple of winters, I'm hoping we'll make it happen! Till then, we'll just enjoy the blossoming trees and sunshine :)

even in kyoto

Even in Kyoto

--hearing the cuckoo's cry--

I long for Kyoto.

--Basho

I'm sure you've hear this verse from me before, but it's been my favorite poem for years and a sort of anthem particularly after I discovered that I'm a "4" on the Enneagram, the archetype of longing and melancholy. Now that I've been to Kyoto twice in the past few months, the city begins to beckon. I long to live here for a year and breathe its charms in all seasons.

And winter, by the way, is a lovely time to visit Kyoto if you get lucky with the weather. Seeing it at its absolute peak in autumn was astounding and made the crowds worth it. Seeing it without any crowds was also a huge treat.

Fortunately, we've discovered many ways to remind ourselves to stop and reflect and even remember. Isaiah's teacher gave him a journal as a way to bridge the gap between school and the 4 days he missed...he took his assignment seriously, kept his tools at his side, and was often breaking for journal and photo stops.

Of course, sister is in on the act, camera and pencil roll in hand.

 

Gardening, Japanese style.  I was surprised that landscapers spent 2 full days in autumn on our tiny front planter and back patio, but once I saw the gardeners at work on the sacred temple grounds, I understood. Sort of. As well as a very casual non-gardener might. Here, the gardener is removing one type of moss so that another type of moss can grow more fully. The older couple who translated for us were very concerned about what we Americans thought about their "non-natural" way of gardening. We assured them that the care that goes into each plant, stone, and tree feels like love.

 Our ninja, crossing the inner moat of the Nijo Castle.

 As we imagined keeping watch over an inner moat and an outer moat, pondered scaling rock walls, and being bodyguards hiding in secret doors to keep intruders at bay, we were transported centuries back in time. Definitely a highlight.

 A shogun castle makes even little boys who are sight-seeing weary very happy.

The Golden Temple was striking, but it seems that the teens on school trips found Grandpa, Grandma and the children just as interesting...

If you're still with me, I apologize for such a long post, but since you've stayed for all this time, I'll give you a treat, fresh from the Nishiki Food Market. Lollipops, anyone?

 

Japan is a food lovers' dream. Kyoto is the heart of that dream. The Nishiki Market is the paradise at the center of that heart. And our boy, same as he ever was, revels in the paradise in the heart of the dream :) Food on a stick...yummmmm.

And now the children and grandparents can soak in a couple of quiet days together, while my honey and I go off for a bit more adventuring. I know, believe me, how lucky I am in every way. I'll just go and try to let it soak in :)

 

gung hay fat choy

 We officially welcomed the Year of the Rabbit today with a clam noodle soup and dim sum lunch in Chinatown before the parade. Mom and Dad's visit seems to be accompanied by the travel fairies, so I shouldn't be surprised that we found ourselves in a private tatami room gorging ourselves on delicious food before wandering out to find a perfect spot just before the beginning of the parade.

I had warmed the kiddos that this would probably be the biggest crowd their little country eyes had seen, and I was right. They loved being carried through the crowd on our shoulders, peering at the throngs. And I was right back to the days when I ran through San Francisco at night, during the parade, on a mad treasure hunt.

 

 

 

 

 Miel loved best being "eaten" by the dragons, an experience she repeated as many times as she could. I guess we can hope for a lucky year!

 

 

For the folks back home, Grandma and Grandpa have been having a ball in Japan. Of course, I'm walking them a little too much, but they're resting well and exploring every day. The day after they arrived, Isaiah, Grandma and I spent the afternoon at Manyo Onsen...after several tubs, a salt scrub sauna, foot massage, rootop footbath, sushi, and sake, I think her travel kinks were worked out :)

We took in the sights of Kamakura the next day, took a harbor cruise the following, and today was the parade...all accompanied by fantastic food and talk of future fantastic food, of course.

Peace til the next time...

 

Saturday shopping

Out and about with g & g, we had to stop in the dog store to imagine jazz dressed in pink plaid and satin. Love, love, love the matching outfits, especially the spats.

I wouldn't be surprised if Miel starts with match match for her doll.