Ahhhhhh. We're back from our weekend getaway at Chojukan Onsen. So lovely. So quiet. Old and simple.
Well, this is actually the newer onsen wing. I didn't get a photo of the 100-year old very traditional room, but you can find at least a small photo here.
And the outdoor rotemburo (outdoor bath), which I was able to enjoy while catching snowflakes on my tongue. A quintessential Japanese experience (that also reminded me somehow of The Palace in winter, Orr Hot Springs, and Ventana at Big Sur).
The onsen washing area...scrub clean before the tub.
A spring water drinking area outside the baths.
After a couple of hours of soaking, dinner was delivered to our room :)
Tempura fish and a sweet potato and fish filling tempura sandwich.
Beef, aspargus, mushrooms, and onion grilled in butter in a hot pot.
Cucumber and some kind of hatcho miso, mushroom in an aspic-like cube, burdock and carrot wrapped in smoked fish, some kind of crunchy roe, roast beef.
Sashimi.
Daikon wrapped round pickled veggies, pickled spring onion, some pickled fish that tasted just like the pickled herring that Grandpa used to buy on Sundays.
Tofu and beans and a sweet fermented cabbage.
Local fish.
Egg custard.
It was so much food, we didn't even touch the rice that comes at the end of the meal. A fellow guest told us that this place has "pretty good" food, but the onsen he was going to the next night has not as good baths, but better food. We certainly enjoyed ourselves, and everything was tasty and fresh. It seemed fitting country fare for the setting. Our fellow guest's complaint was that it was "too much food." But so relaxing to taste and try and rest while doing my best.
And I still had plenty of energy for late-night soak. And while we disappear for our soak, the futon fairies come and lay out the beds.
Maybe all that energy came from the green tea in the lobby tea room.
Breakfast was another feast...fish, tofu, rice, miso, and so many fermented vegetables. (Dale, you would have loved it!)
I've got to say, seeing all that snow made me itch for a ski trip. We're so busy with visitors these next couple of months, we might not fit it in, but after raising such good downhill and cross country skiers these last couple of winters, I'm hoping we'll make it happen! Till then, we'll just enjoy the blossoming trees and sunshine :)


rachel, your japanese adventures are tantilizing me to NO END! this is a slice of heaven! each detail captures such beauty...
Posted by: sara raul | February 14, 2011 at 12:15 PM
We need one of those in Providence! (minus the fish breakfast) LOL
xoxo
Posted by: Kimmie | February 16, 2011 at 12:00 AM
I am so glad you are doing this blog, Rachel. It makes me miss Japan so much and I can't wait to go back.
Posted by: CD | February 17, 2011 at 02:13 PM
Wow! I envy you guys! It's been my long time dream to have a vacation in Japan, eating fresh sushi and sashimi everyday, sleeping in tatami mats, and bathing in the onsen the whole day. That's my dream of a perfect vacation.
Posted by: Shanae Buckner | October 20, 2011 at 08:34 AM